Don We Now Our Gay Apparel

Gay Men's Dress in the Twentieth Century

Shaun Cole author

Format:Paperback

Publisher:Bloomsbury Publishing PLC

Publishing:11th Jun '26

£23.99

This title is due to be published on 11th June, and will be despatched as soon as possible.

Don We Now Our Gay Apparel cover

Re-issued with a new preface, afterword and reading list, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel analyzes the trends in dress adopted by gay men as well as the challenge gay style has made to mainstream men’s fashion.

Expand your understanding of the development and history of gay men’s dress with Shaun Cole’s groundbreaking work – from the subcultural world of the early 20th century to the clubs and bars of the 80s and 90s.

Drawing upon first-hand interviews conducted with men across the UK and US, Cole analyzes the trends in dress adopted by gay men as well as the challenge gay style has posed to mainstream men’s fashion. Other sources such as contemporary magazines shed further light on the culture and discourse influencing gay men’s dress and, in the newly extended reading list, the author situates his own work among the landscape of recent writing on queer and gay men’s style. A new preface and afterword also reflect on the value of the research methodology employed by the text, as well as the changes in studies related to the central focus of Cole’s work.

Whether you’re approaching it from a fashion studies, LGBTQ+ studies or sociology perspective, this re-issued text is a vital introduction for anyone interested in gay men’s fashion over the last 100 years.

[A] fascinating study . . . From the New Edwardians and muscle boys to Radical Drag… Don We Now Our Gay Apparel has it all. -- Gay Times
This is a very readable book about gay men's dress in the 20th century, from coded signifiers of sexuality to macho cowboy clones. -- The Scotsman
Hegemonic masculinity is a whole subject in itself, entertainingly and learnedly discussed in Shaun Cole’s perfectly titled DON WE NOW OUR GAY APPAREL, which shows in fascinating detail how ‘clothing has been a primary method of identification for and of gay men'. -- London Review of Books

ISBN: 9781350462052

Dimensions: unknown

Weight: unknown

264 pages

Revised edition